Name: Markus Bock
DOB: 13/02/1979
Interview By: Ben Moon

Markus Bock is not only one of Germany’s strongest climbers both in routes and boulders he is also Moon’s German distributor. He weighs about as much as an ant, even less than me which is really saying something and has very strong fingers (almost as strong as mine!) However, what’s more important is that he is a thoroughly good guy who I have enjoyed climbing and working with which is why I want to introduce him to you.

BM - When and where did you start climbing?
MB - I started climbing when I was 6 years old with my parents, but this was only from time to time. I didn’t start climbing hard until 1990 when I was 11 years old.

BM - Do you have a favorite style of climbing (traditional, sport, bouldering etc)?
MB - Sport climbing and bouldering are my favorites styles and I normally do equal amounts of each although some years when I have lots of projects I do more bouldering.

BM - What would be your top route recommendations in the UK?
MB - I have stayed only 3 times in the Peak and also at Kilnsey once and there are a some really good routes. If you want to climb a classic and hard 8a+ then do “Revelations” at Ravens Tor.

BM - And abroad?
MB - Then come to Frankenjura and enjoy our pocket climbing! No, there are also some really good lines and some real classics like “Face”, “Wallstreet” and “Action Directe”. Also Switzerland has some really nice spots, not only for bouldering. Grimselpass, where “Elfe” is, is a nice place. Also Basler Jura.

BM - Do you have any classic easy routes?
MB Yes of course! “Chasin the train”, “Maud”, “Fight Gravity” or “Sautanz” are some really classics too.

BM - You call those easy! I was think more along the lines of Hard Very Severe! What would be your top boulder problem recommendations in the UK?
MB - I have seen not so many different places to say something really objective about this, but for me the great looking problems are “The Ace”, “Brad Pitt”, “Deliverance” and “Full Power”.

BM - And abroad?
MB - I like the Tessin in Switzerland quite well. There are some really good granite boulders in a nice area. And for sure there is a lot more potential there.

BM - Can you recommend a few problems and they do not all have to be super difficult!
MB - “Grotte de soupier” is a real classic, which was one of the first harder ones in this area. Also there is a classic 7c+ arête bit left of it, I think its called “La vent sombre” or something like this. And stuff like “Dreamtime” and “La soucoupe” of course.

We also have a lot of nice boulders in my home area of the Frankenjura, which are not all bad-pocket-style. What I like not so much is Font. I think this is because its really not my style of climbing. All bad slopers!

BM - How often do you climb?
MB - Normally 4 times a week.

BM - How often do you train and for how many hours per session?
MB - I normally try to go out whenever I can and whenever its possible. We often have bad weather here in winter, also our weather is a bit like the weather in England. I don’t like to train too much inside and also it doesn’t seem to help me for my climbing.

BM - What is the best time of year to visit the Frankenjura?
MB - Normally its good in May and in September and October.

BM - Where do you train?
MB - If I go bouldering inside then on my own woody under the roof or to a friend of mine which has the same style of woody under his roof.

BM - What kind of training do you do?
MB - Nothing special, only bouldering. And some campus-stuff.

BM - Your best achievement?
MB - “Gossip” and “Montecore” (FB) 8c as first accents in bouldering. “Vanquish” and “Unplugged” 8c+ as first accents in climbing

BM - Your goals for 2005?
MB - Go climbing and bouldering the best I can!

BM - Good luck mate, you’ll need it!