Name: Malcolm Smith
DOB: 27/10/1973
Interview By: Ben Moon

Malcolm Smith needs little introduction. He burst on to the scene in 1990 when he made the second ascent of Hubble 8c+. Since then he hasn't looked back and has made 1st ascents and repeats of some of the hardest problems in the World including Dreamtime 8b+, A Monks Life 8b+ and The Ace 8b. I have had the fortune or maybe misfortune (!) of climbing and training with him on numerous occasions and I am convinced he is one of the strogest climbers in the world. Not bad for a Scotsman!

BM - When and where did you start climbing?
MS - I started with my father at a local crag called Traprain.

BM - If you weren’t a World-class rock climber, what do you think you would have liked to have been?
MS - I probably would have got into art of some sort.

BM - Where are your favourite climbing spots in the UK and Abroad?
MS - Northumberland, Cressbrook, The school room, Malham and Kilnsey. Abroad my favourites are Fontainbleau, Cresciano and Magic wood.

BM - You’re well known for bouldering these days but do you still do other styles of climbing? (Traditional, sport etc)? If so how often?
MS - I went on an extended trip to Europe a few months back and got back into sport routes. Until I lost strength through lack of bouldering I was climbing better on routes than ever. Since I got back I’ve just been training, Glasgow isn’t known for its sports crags.

BM - What would be your top route recommendations in the UK?
MS - Malham and Kilnsey are the places to go, many of the routes are World class, if a little polished. My favourites are Cry Freedom at Malham and the Ashes at Kilnsey.

BM - And abroad?
MS - Ceuze is amazing, everything there is great and its situation incredible.

BM - What would be your top boulder problem recommendations in the UK?
MS - The Yorkshireman and Monk life at Kyloe, Superman at Cressbrook and The Joker at Stanage.

BM - And abroad?
MS - Anything in Fontainbleau, especially at Cuvier.

BM - Where in the world that you haven’t already climbed to would you love to climb?
MS - Yosemite, Bishop and Heuco.

BM - What do you look for when choosing a new boulder problem?
MS - Pleasant, non tweaky moves and visual appeal, although history and reputation can also play a part (Cressbrook!)

BM - How often do you climb?
MS - 5 days per week on average, 4 at the moment.

BM - How often do you train and for how many hours per session?
MS - It varies but at the moment I train at the wall 4 days per week and do about the same number of weights sessions. I normally don’t train for longer than an hour-and-a-half at a time but often do 2 or more sessions in a day.

BM - How many days a year do you NOT climb or train and what do you do instead?
MS - I train all year, If I don’t want to climb I do weights. I seldom have more than a week or two off in a year. At the moment work ensures that I don’t have too much time on my hands to get bored.

BM - Where do you train?
MS - At The Glasgow wall, Alien Rock in Edinburgh and at Ratho before I moved to Glasgow

BM - What kind of training do you do?
MS - Bouldering, footless bouldering, Campus and a lot of weights.

BM - Your top training tip or tips?
MS - Fingers, fingers, fingers. No World class climber has weak fingers but many get away with weaker bodies.

BM - Has Nutrition played a part in your training now and in the past?
MS - Its played a big part every time I have to lose weight for a project, I’m no stick insect.

BM - Surely the fags don’t help Malc?
MS - I hate smoking it can never help, I need a fag it depresses me so much.

BM - Do you think the best climbers in the World are that good mainly through good genetics or through dedication?
MS - I believe genetics play a part but the most important factors are dedication and hard work.

BM - What proportion of your climbing career have you been injured?
MS - I have seldom been stopped completely but over the last few years I’ve carried a number of niggles. At the moment its elbow tendonitis, my broken hand has been ok of late.

BM - What do you feel are your best achievements in and out of the climbing arena?
MS - My traverses and The Monk Life at Kyloe, Pilgrimage in Parassellas cave, several 8a+ on sights in the summer on routes and flashes of font 8a’s on the boulders. Doing well in Competitions despite feeling uncomfortable on stage. Managing to keep down 10 pints for the first time recently.

BM - If you could live anywhere in the World where would it be, and why?
MS - Swizerland somewhere, I love the look of it and the climbings good.

BM - What is your opinion on competitions and their role in climbing today?
MS Competitions are an excellent way of bringing on your on-sight ability..They have done a lot for British climbing and have helped nurture several World Class climbers over the years.

BM - What do you think about the climbing scene in general today?
MS - Its doing well, there’s so much variety. As long as we avoid chipping and putting bolts in the wrong places what can go wrong.

BM - If you could climb with any individual (alive or dead) who would it be?
MS - An old Scottish climber called John Cunningham

BM - Your goals for 2005?
MS To lift 100kg above my head, to deadlift 200kg, to buy a flat and to climb better than ever.

BM - What would you say to aspiring new climbers?
MS - Make finger strength the number one priority in your training, work on your weaknesses and never drink on an empty stomach.