|
Name: Jenny Woodward
DOB: 1971
Interview: Moon Climbing / January 2011
Moon Climbing - When and where did you start climbing?
Jenny - I started climbing with Newcastle University Mountaineering Club when I was 18. We climbed all over the place - Northumberland, The Lakes, The Peak, the Cairngorms etc. It was a bit of an eye-opener having been brought up in the flatlands of Hertfordshire. The sport climbing bug bit later - I was in my mid-20s living in Nottingham. I can remember doing my first 7a during a hurried evening in Cheedale. I’ve been addicted pretty much ever since.
Moon Climbing - Do you have a favourite style of climbing (traditional, sport, bouldering etc)?
Jenny - Sport climbing is my favourite form of climbing I guess. More specifically, overhanging pocketed walls! I love bouldering too, but have heard it said that the amount of time I spend on a boulder problem, it might as well be a route. I did my apprenticeship wiggling in nuts / cams but any belayer will probably say they’re relieved those days are past!
Moon Climbing - You are stuck on a desert island with just one route and one boulder. Which ones would you choose and why?
Jenny - I’ve opted for something that will keep me busy… So Realisation at Ceuse and the Bowderstone should do it! I’d either be strong or injured by the time I got rescued.
Moon Climbing - Who is your climbing hero or inspiration and why?
Jenny - I don’t have one particular climbing hero but I do remember seeing an inspiring display of climbing at Orpierre. A French woman red-pointed an 8b – she was amazing – strong, technical and calm. I try, rarely successfully, to copy that when I red-point! Generally I’m most inspired by people who seem to love climbing, whatever the outcome.
Moon Climbing - How often do you climb?
Jenny - As often as I can! At the moment that’s about 4 times a week. During the summer I’ll go to the crag 3 times and train in our garage once. During the winter it’s more like the other way round.
Moon Climbing - Where and how often do you train and for how many hours per week?
Jenny - Since I had my daughter I don’t follow a rigid structure – instead I’ll climb or train whenever I can. I probably climb more often now but for shorter sessions. I train in our garage a couple of times a week for up to an hour. It’s a steep, stepped board with smallish handholds and marginal footholds. A couple of times a week I’ll go to a climbing wall with Lara (often with some friends and their children). The sessions are longer, but probably less productive! “Rests” are spent building duplo structures / separating bickering toddlers! Our current favourite is Citybloc in Leeds – the problems are great and the skatepark entertains the kids. During the summer I’ll train at the crag. I’ll go a few times a week for 3 or 4 hours.
Moon Climbing - What kind of training do you do?
Jenny - I spend the winter training to get more powerful. I find stamina far easier to get / retain. I follow the old school Yorkshire method of trying to do problems that are as hard as possible. Always with poor footholds! I also try to do some pull ups, leg raises and locking off exercises. In Spring I’ll get fit by doing routes at the crag.
Moon Climbing - Your top training tip or tips?
Jenny - To try really hard when you do train – for me, it seems less important what you actually do. Lots of short sessions seem to work for me. I also think it’s important to do lots of easy climbing to keep yourself moving well on rock.
Moon Climbing - The climbing achievement you are most proud of and why?
Jenny - I’m most proud of the first female ascents of classic Yorkshire sport routes I’ve done – in particular, Zoolook, Urgent Action, Predator and Mandela. At the moment, Mandela stays in my mind, but that’s probably because it was the most recent! More generally I’m chuffed to have got back to climbing hard after having a child. At times, it seemed a long way off!
Moon Climbing - What is your opinion on competitions? Good, bad or indifferent?
Jenny - Good if you’re into them – bad if you’re not! I’m impressed by good competition climbers – to perform “on demand” is hard. I don’t think they particularly relate to outdoor climbing but I guess that’s not a problem if you see them as separate things.
Moon Climbing - Your goals for 2011?
Jenny - I’m trying hard to get stronger so I can do some more classic routes. There’s plenty I’d like to do but I’ll take it as it comes once Spring is here.
|
