New fro our German friends
2009-04-18 08:52:40
Ben MOON

Hi Ben,

Hope you´re fine and you have nice days on good rocks.

Yesterday we came back from a two weeks trip to Tecino. The weather was a really good switch from verry bad rainy and cold weather in Frankenjura to nice warm (maybe a bit to warm) and perfect camping weather in Switzerland. We had a lot of fun at the granit boudlers and it was great to be outside all the time.
The first days i climbed a lot to get the feeling for the completly different kind of climbing but with the first contact i felt much better than the last time (December). I also had more confidence to try harder boulders without straining my biceps to much...so i went to the two boulders that i tried on the last trip Amber and Crackline both graded 8B.

Amber is a beautiful little boulder with powerful moves at the start and slope tricky moves at the end. For my big surprise i climbed it after an hour of trying this trip. Maybe it´s more 8A+ especially if one compare it to Crackline. Ok, Crackline is more specific and you should have some kind of a higher tolarance of pain. It´s a really natural line in a big wall and there is only this crack that gets from a sitdown start to the left and ends with an easier 8 meter slap.It took me a few sessions to figure out the right sequenze to climb smooth through the powerfull start that leeds into the crack. The cruxmove is a two finger drill for the left hand to an other crack drill for the right hand from where you have to do a scarry dyno to a good edge because of you are not really sure if your fingers get out of the crack fast enough. I am happy that i did it this trip because of i cutted my skin very badly at one try and i did not knew if it heals fast enough but at the end i had luck.

I also had the honor to make an impressiv first ascent that a friend of mine found in a new small area in Tecino. It´s called "Habe die Ehre" that means something like "being proud of something that you are allowed to do" and at the same time "hallo" in baverian areas. It´s around 7 meters high and 35 degrees steep. The first moves are the crux moves on sharp crimps. I think it´s 7C+ or 8A but really impressive

Now i make some rest days and wait for the good conditions at home.....

Cheers

Fabi