Today marks the arrival at a new level in my climbing. I am not sure how I got here, or when, but I know that some transformation has occurred recently. After looking back over the last months and what I may have done differently, I believe it was the month I took off over Christmas that has allowed me to step it up a notch. After this rest, I went through a couple weeks of weakness and low motivation, but after working through these phases, I found myself back at the level I was before I took the break. However, my upwards trend did not end there, it kept going above the previous plateau. Today, I realized that something has changed, and oh am I glad it has.

I woke up feeling no different than usual. The temps were average, a lot cooler than yesterday making me glad I had decided to rest. So, Keith and I headed over to Elephunk, a cool 8B five minutes from the house. We have made several trips to Elephunk but there is always something wrong with it. There were a bunch of cut down trees leaning against it for a couple weeks, until some tractors moved them out of the way. Another problem is that it tends to stay wet, so seeing as it has not rained for about five days, we were sure today would be prime. Keith forgot his video camera, so we drove back to the house, got it, and returned. We then walked down to the boulder, only to find it soaking wet. How was it so wet? Why? There is some curse that is preventing us from trying this boulder problem, but hopefully it shall pass, and we will try it soon enough. So the day had started off with A) Forgetting the camera and having to go back and get it, and B) Elephunk being wet. Not the smoothest start.

So, where to go? Keith was resting so it was down to me, again. I had been thinking about returning to Satan I Helvete, to try the assis, but was reluctant. I had never tried it, and was not ready to open a new chapter. I felt like I wanted to do a problem today, rather than put in a days work on one. Keith told me he thought I could do it today, there was no reason why not. I was not confident about that, although I knew hypothetically it was possible. So, after some pro and conning, we headed up to Satan, for my first session on the sit, third altogether.

I spent about ten minutes figuring out methods for the lower moves. I could do the moves a couple different ways but none felt significantly easier than the other, so I chose one method and stuck with it. My sequence added four powerful moves on positive crimps, into the stand start. My first two goes, I made it into the stand start, falling on the big move out left, the crux move (of the stand and sit). The start was taking its toll, making me slightly tired for the hard move, slightly less explosive, the key ingredient to getting the distance. On my third go, after slightly switching my sequence for the lower moves, I got my fingers over the crux hold, but I was not close to sticking it. I was going through the exact same process as when I was trying the stand start a couple days ago, and I was aware of this. First I was coming up short, then getting the distance but not sticking it, and then after about five or six goes, I would stick the hold and do the problem. Everything was the same. Well, I had not stuck it and done the problem yet, but I was hoping that is what my failed attempts were leading up to.

Down the hill on the path, Keith and I saw the same people on the same horses, chasing the same black dog. We saw these people the other day right before I did the stand start. Was this a sign? Was I about to do it? I had another go, again getting the distance but not latching. I was close to doing it. I knew I could do it but did not have the confidence. Maybe because it is an unrepeated 8C, maybe because I watched taxi driver last night and was not feeling especially psyched today, I don't know why. I thought about the bolognese I would make if I did it today, and the unpredictable nature of my ascent last time. It was possible. I could do it right now. I could eat bolognese tonight.

I brushed each hold, cleaned my shoes and pulled on. I did not feel particularly solid on the lower moves but when I reached up to the right hand crimp, I got it right first time, no readjusting. I looked out to the edge I was about to leap for. When I had stuck the move the other day, it all happened very quickly and my hand was suddenly on the hold. This time was different. I watched my left hand travel out and onto the edge, feeling my fingers engage with the rock as soon as they landed perfectly on the grip. My feet swung off, this did not happen last time. I kept tension, swinging them right back on. I had a flash-vision of Tim Clifford falling off after the crux and assured myself this would not happen to me. I did the next two moves, climbing with utmost precision and precaution, making sure not to fall off. These moves aren't particularly hard, but after the crux are possible to drop. I moved through them with no problems, letting out a Malcolm Smith style roar upon reaching the top. I had done it. I was not expecting to and was quite surprised. It was at this moment that I realized what was happening. Everything I wanted to climb so far, I had climbed, quickly and smoothly. I had elevated my game to the next level and with no particular effort to do so, it had just happened. I thought about what I'd just done and how far I'd come. It felt good to be on the next level, and I looked back at what it took to get here. Thirteen years of dedication, discipline and determination. Practice really does pay off, and in this moment I was satisfied, aware of my ability to rock climb.

Signing out, belly full of bolognese.

Ty