Climbing has been going well. I finished up a couple more boulders. First up was O Dia Santo.. check the photo...Nate was there to get the send...and it was as close as it gets! always a good feeling... I'd imagine you would be keen on this boulder..it's on of those boulders- nearly perfect, edge climbing, like something in Hueco. It's long (13 moves) and sustained with a difficult crux dyno at the end and a spice mantle on great rock. Anyway, its a classic!
Yesterday, after a long drive to the huge metropolis of Belo Horizonto on Sunday, we got an early start to check out a classic power boulder from Felipe called Amnesia. I warmed up and checked the moves... I was surprised on how the boulder suited my style. Compression, steep about 45 degrees, small holds. It's 8 moves long so it's quick to the point. You have to hit the moves perfectly with no hesitation. Bouldering at it's finest. I gave one shot from the start and just missed the last crimper, a quarter pad incut sidepull that bites. My skin already burned so i knew I didn't have many more tries. I waited about 20 minutes for a nice breeze and pulled on without thinking, I snatched the edge, enough to stick, I knew it was nearly in the bag, one more jump move and its over. Don't think about the pain, just go. I moved my feet up and leaped. I topped out and finished Amnesia, one of the best 8B's I have ever climbed. Perfect!
Well, thats about up to date. Amnesia is really a great climb. I think almost any climber would be impressed. I'm sure this is another boulder that you would be psyched with. Almost perfect! So, Nate leaves today and we have wrapped up the Brazil shoot! We have a ton of material and it's looking great! Nate will be in touch and there will soon be a longer (real) trailer out for the film... now temporarily named 'Reach'. What do you think of the name? Hope all is well,
There is a competition on Saturday so we are going to have a gym session today. Ill be in touch,
Jon
Check out Amnesia in the Rest of the World album here.