Its been quite the trip getting down here.  Missed the flight in SLC, arrived in Denver finally at 1am, packed and slept a couple hours.  Denver to Miami at 7am, an 8 hour wait, after an 8 hour flight to Sao Paulo, then 4 hour drive and we are here!   Here is the story of the first day, it was a great time with good people and of course amazing climbing!  We got some video and photos from the day so when I have better internet I will send you guys some stuff.
 
I met up with Felipe and after a quick bite to eat and a cervesa we headed to the boulders.  The rock is crazy here!  Quartzite, like sandstone/limestone... black on top, white and brown in the roofs, square cut everything, crimpers, slopers... and the top outs are nice, slopes to weird mushroom-like jugs.  We were taken to the main boulder which had a few established blocs but only on the lip.  Its a huge steep feature, roof climbing at its finest.  We warmed up and decided to delve into the projects.  There was a huge crowd of people.  The place was loaded with pads and the energy was high.  We started with a strange roof with a small pocket.. after the holds were cleaned and the beta was found we opened a very nice 7c, complete with an Andrada style one arm swing-out at the lip.  Good fun, good holds.  After we started to try the direct, which meant starting in the same place but instead of escaping to the arete the line took the roof via a slopey crack with minimal holds.  We battled around with many sequences and eventually the beta was unlocked- a crazy lock off from a small pocket to a very slopey gaston.  After about an hour Felipe sent the line!  Bush Diving was born and the crowd of people were estatic.   I was shut down by the pocket beta and decided to try something else, taking the pocket with the other hand and reaching into the gaston like an undercut, matching, then throwing to a decient pinch.  The beta worked and after a couple tries I managed to finish it off.  The Bush Diving is very similar to the power testpiece Couer De Lion in Hueco and is now Sao Thome das Letras first V13!
 
Next up was just up the roof.  The people remained and the lights came out.  There was an established line, V10 or something, that started mid sequence with the feet on a good rail far down.  We looked at the options climbing in from the rail and the sequence was quickly born.  3 crimp moves with one good foot, after a few long moves to the top are all that remain.  The roof is nearly horizontal and the holds are terrible, quarter pad and flat.  The only thing that keeps you on is your tension on the rail.  Luckly for us it was nearly 9pm and the conditions were better than before.  After nd find the tension to keep my feet on and the the cimper sequence unlocked, after a huge fight I topped out High Tention for its first ascent. I haven´t tried that hard in a long time and it felt great to have the power of the people with me.  Soon after Felipe followed it up with an a muerte attempt and send the boulder. 2nd ascent-3 new boulders, 1 good first day!  Everyone was wasted and hungry after that so we decided to call it and treck back to the village for some food.  Day one was a succes and I am very fortunate to be here.  We leave to a new area tomorrow and I cannot wait to see what else Brazil has to offer.  Until next time.
 
So, thats how it was, Im very trashed now... time for some rest and we will depart tomorrow.  Ill send you guys the video and photos from the day.  Its pretty cool out here.  Im actually very impressed with the climbing and the people.  Nate arrives next week so it should be a good time.  Ill be in touch!
 
cheers!
 
Jon